2012 Mukluk Lineup

Last year we introduced the Mukluk, our fatbike. For 2012, the Mukluk range expands.

Mukluk Ti

Mukluk Ti is our premier product in the lineup and is available only as a Frameset. Crafted of titanium, it delivers a premium ride quality and is the only Mukluk to feature our Alternator dropouts.

Alternator dropouts allow a few different things, including wheelbase adjustment and singlespeed chain tensioning. Singlespeeds are often the setup of choice for some of the most truly derailleur-munching adventures taking place in the biking world.

Besides the kick-butt ride quality, titanium also offers a very high level of corrosion resistance, increasing the lifespan of your frame when used in wet (or wet and salty) conditions.

Mukluk 2

Mukluk 2 is offered as both a frameset and a complete bike for 2012.

Mukluk 2 is crafted of 7005 aluminum tubing that has excellent corrosion resistance. The frame receives an anodized finish for extra durability, while also removing a bit of weight. Our 2012 aluminum Mukluk frames now pass EN testing as mountain bikes.

The Enabler fork provided with the Mukluk 2 features an ED coating, which in simplified terms is the steel equivalent of anodizing aluminum. It results in a very durable finish, both inside and out.

We believe the primary goal of a fatbike should be floatation. The Mukluk 2 complete bike is spec’d with 82mm Rolling Daryl rims with cutouts for weight savings. That rim is paired with a 3.7” Endomorph tire to provide great floatation and ride quality. It also receives the premium E-13 fatbike crankset with external bearings.

Fatbikes push, and sometimes break, the boundaries of traditional bicycle engineering. Fitting big, wide tires and rims into a bicycle frame isn’t easy. Space is not unlimited. Tolerances can stack up. A millimeter here and a millimeter there, makes something that would be unnoticeable on a ‘conventional’ bike become unavoidable. Salsa chooses to spec our fatbikes with wide 82mm rims because of the floatation and performance gains.

With 82mm rims and 3.7” or 3.8” tires millimeters matter.

With our spec of the Mukluk 2, chain rub is minimal. We consider it to be at what we call ‘zero’, meaning the chain does not rub the tire, but there is no additional clearance.

The realities of fatbikes mean that a wheel slightly out of true or dished incorrectly to the driveside, or a tire that is slightly deformed, or a frame that is slightly out of alignment (even by a millimeter or two) can result in chain/tire rub. See the Millimeters Matter section at the end of this post for our thoughts on what this means and how to handle it.

Mukluk 3

Our Mukluk 3 frameset uses the same frame and fork as Mukluk 2, but with a powdercoat finish. Powdercoat finishes are also very durable.

As mentioned above, we believe fatbikes first and foremost need to provide floatation, and we spec’d the Mukluk 3 with 82mm Rolling Daryl rims. We upgraded the crankset for 2012 to a Truvativ Hussefelt model. This crankset uses outboard bearings and is of higher quality than the crankset we used last year.

Note that this specification does result in chain/tire rub when in the two easiest gears.

Last year’s Mukluk spec choice (FSA Isis crankset and 80mm Graceful Fat Sheba rims) did this as well, but was able to be countered because of the bottom bracket used. A 2.5mm spacer could be switched to the driveside of the bottom bracket thereby moving the chainrings outboard and eliminating chain/tire rub.

Our 2012 Mukluk 3 spec does not allow this spacer-trick option. The crankset uses external bearings and the spindle is not long enough to allow an extra spacer to be added to move the crankset/chainrings outboard. In addition, the switch from an 80mm rim to the 82mm rim widens the tire even more, further complicating the matter. This results in the chain/tire rub mentioned above.

Again, Salsa chooses to spec our fatbikes with wide 82mm rims because of the floatation and performance gains. As noted earlier, this puts the rider on a high performance rear wheel immediately and doesn’t push them to upgrade to a wider rim once they realize the benefit of floatation.

In their relatively short history, fatbike riders have (and continue to) use modified setups to make their bikes work the way they want them to. There are several ways to deal with this chain/tire rub, all of which are common with fatbikes. Keep reading the Millimeters Matter portion of the post for more on this.

The Lineup

We feel our 2012 Mukluk lineup is a great addition to the fatbike world, and we know they are encouraging more folks than ever to try these incredibly capable machines. They truly do ride where other bikes can’t.

Millimeters Matter

Fatbikes are complicated machines. Cramming wider stuff in just doesn’t work. In fact, our sister brand Surly’s original 65mm Large Marge rim and 3.7” Endomorph tire standard did not develop by accident. Those sizes were determined because they would allow full use of all gears without creating chain/tire rub.

80mm rims (and wider) and 3.7” tires (and wider) complicate this matter. To put it simply, there is no room for the chain to move past the tire without touching it. But keep in mind that those wider rims and tires do create greater floatation and tire performance, thereby creating a finely honed double-edged sword.

As mentioned earlier, there are commonly used methods to eliminate this chain/tire rub. (NOTE: The wider your rim and tire get, the more trade-offs you need to make to avoid chain/tire rub)

1) Dish the wheel slightly to the non-driveside of the bike. By moving the rim 4mm or so to the left (for an 82mm rim and 3.8” tire), it creates slight clearance for the chain to avoid the tire. This slight wheel dishing is unnoticeable when riding the bike and retains full use of all gears.

2) Truncate your cassette. We posted a blog on this earlier this year because this solution is so commonly used with fatbikes. By removing one or two rear cogs (normally the smaller ones), shifting the remaining cogs outboard, and then limiting the rear derailleur travel, it creates slight clearance for the chain to avoid the tire. This does remove a couple gears from your cassette but is the preferred method of many fatbike riders (including the majority of us at Salsa).

3) Change crankset/bottom bracket. As obvious from this post, the crankset/bottom bracket combo you choose will have a dramatic affect on whether or not you experience chain/tire rub. There are a few options available that can help minimize this, including the higher end E-13 and Surly Mr. Whirly MWOD cranksets. You could also downgrade to the FSA Isis crankset/bottom bracket to help minimize chain/tire rub.

4) Downgrade your rear wheel. Switching to a 65mm rim with a 3.8” tire will create clearance for the chain to move past the tire. But it will also decrease floatation and just as importantly the ride quality of the tire. In our experience, 3.8” knobby tires perform better when mounted to 80mm rims than 65mm rims.

With Specific Regard To The 2012 Mukluk 3 Chain/Tire Rub Situation

Our 2012 Mukluk 3 spec was chosen intentionally to deliver Floatation, Quality, and Price.

We feel that fatbikes should have rims that are 80mm-wide or wider to provide the floatation they are designed for. We believe a 65mm rim is a down spec and more importantly a downgrade in performance. For the consumer to upgrade to a wider rim will eventually be a very costly endeavor. We prefer to start them off with what we consider a proper fatbike wheel.

The crankset we chose is a higher quality than the previous year’s model. We believe it offers better performance and value in the long term. We chose not to down spec to the previous year’s crankset. We also didn’t choose to spec the highest end cranksets on the market because of the effect it would have on price.

No good fatbike is cheap, but we did try to create the nicest bike we could at a price that would hopefully help more people make their way into the fatbike world. Fatbiking is something we think more cyclists should take part in, as it can be an incredibly unique experience, different from all other types of cycling, once the rider realizes the unique capabilities of these machines.

We Own Our Decisions

We’ve seen a mixed response to the chain/tire rub situation of the 2012 Mukluk 3. Some are okay with the solutions of re-dishing the rear wheel or truncating the cassette. Others don’t like either of those solutions.

If you purchased a 2012 Mukluk 3, we will work with you through your Salsa Authorized Dealer to make you happy with your purchase.

The feedback we’ve gotten on the Mukluk 3 spec has been an interesting lesson.

Not choosing one of the methods listed above still presented two commonly used options to the end consumer, and gave them the ability to choose the one they preferred, but many folks have not been satisfied by this.

For that we apologize.

In the future, we will avoid chain/tire rub by choosing to truncate, dish differently, spec a different crankset/bottom bracket/rim, or come to market at a different price.

Thanks for reading this rather long post. We hope this helps you understand the 2012 Mukluk lineup, some of the inherent design challenges fatbikes present, as well as why we made some of the decisions we did.

Now please go enjoy riding a bike.

This post filed under topics: Fatbike Kid Mukluk

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Mike Riemer

Mike Riemer

I love being outside. I prefer to ride on dirt. Or snow. If I was born a hundred years earlier I might have been a polar explorer. There's a great natural world out there to see, smell, taste, listen to, and experience. Life slows down out there and the distractions we've created will disappear if you let them. Give me a backpack and let me go.


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Steve W | October 7th, 2011

What crankset would y’all recommend when building up a Ti (or any frameset, I suppose), if one is willing to spend what is necessary?

I was able to ride a Ti and the demo days in Snowbasin, UT and it is definitely a bike on my short list.

Keep up the good work, guys.

“Stay hungry. Stay foolish” sj

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | October 7th, 2011

Steve W: This is strictly my opinion, but I would recommend the Surly Mr. Whirly with MWOD chainrings. While I don’t really care for the bearings used, I think it offers both the greatest flexibility and performance.

Learn more about it here:




Here’s my quick explanation of Mr Whirly with MWOD chainrings:

You give up your outer ring. Small chainring moves to middle spot, middle chainring moves to outer spot. Everything is more outboard one chainring’s worth and clearance is created.

I believe the complete MWOD Crankset is being sold specifically set up for the Surly Moonlander frame. That version of the crankset uses an even wider bottom bracket spindle to accomplish similar clearance on the Moonlander with the Big Fat Larry tire.

I don’t know the exact numbers but I believe that extra long spindle would be the equivalent of moving the small chainring to the outer ring spot, and then the middle ring to a previously fictitious spot one chainring distance even further outboard. Salsa has not tried that extra long spindle on a Mukluk at all so we won’t comment on what the effect is.

I’ve never ever chosen to run an outer (large) chainring on my fatbike so to me ditching that ring, moving the little and middle rings outboard, and creating some clearance makes perfect sense.

Hopefully that explanation makes some sense and isn’t utterly confusing. Enjoy your weekend.

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Pat Irwin | October 7th, 2011


Your MWOD chainrings explanation makes perfect sense and we appreciate you for clearing it up for us. And the 2012 line-up looks awesome! It’s fun to see how far fat bikes have come in a fairly short time.
And it’s cool to see my Ti Muk in this post. The snow is flying here in Homer so I’ll be needing it back soon.

Thank you Salsa!


Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | October 7th, 2011

Pat: Thanks. If my wallet was bulging at the seams right now, I’d be headed to the airport for a quick trip to Homer. A few days hanging out in your living room staring at the ocean would be worth a million bucks. Some day I shall be there again!

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Dean | October 7th, 2011

Thanks for a thorough, thoughtful explanation, and thanks for supporting your customers.  It is confidence inspiring.  (NOW GET BACK TO WORK AND SHIP MY MUK 2!!!)

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Pat Irwin | October 7th, 2011


You’re welcome anytime. Maybe our Homer150 non-race, however-many-days it-takes, fun ride loop on both beach and snow trails will entice you. Start/Finish in my living room. Mandatory stops at 2 Sisters for biscuits/gravy/coffee. Bring the crew.

Sorry to hijack your post. Salsa really does have a great 2012 line-up and thanks for your clear/concise descriptions and explanations, and I especially like this interactive blog. Anyone who is grunting it out in 2nd gear to crest that short, steep hill on snow, only to have their chain dig into the tire when they bailout to 1st gear, can appreciate the importance on every millimeter of clearance. It’s all in the details and it’s good to see Salsa has been doing their homework.

Thanks from a happy customer,


Bobby | October 7th, 2011

Good news.  We will start shipping Mukluk 2 Bikes to our dealers that have them on order early next week.  Yeah Buddy!!

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steve | October 7th, 2011

Hey kid, remember them sharkfins that Shimano made donkeys years ago ?, well hows about a whale fin to keep the chain free of the tyre ?

But whilst you are pondering that, get to work on getting my Muk out to the UK ASAP :-)

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | October 7th, 2011

Steve: Oh yes, the shark fin chainstay protector…a critical piece of equipment at such a delicate time of drivetrain development…or perhaps just a kind of smart plastic chainstay protector. I actually won one at a race back in the day. Memories.

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Mark | October 7th, 2011

Hi Salsa, I want a Mukluk Ti. My LBS reportedly has one on order for me from you. When will it ship? P.S. I want it now. Right now. Today. Thanks!

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Chad | October 7th, 2011

I’m wondering if the MWOD crankset will work with the bottom bracket that comes on the Mukluk 3 and if not, what bottom bracket would you recommend I use to maximize clearance?  Thanks and I can’t wait for it to snow (first time I have said that in a LONG time!).

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Tom | October 7th, 2011

Do You know the weight for the ti mukluk frames ??

BEn | October 8th, 2011

Awesome post!
Makes total sense to me and will pass along to any customers that question the chain run.  We’ve sold 10 Mukluk 3’s thus far and have not had an issue with any customers.  We have, however, made the chain run issue known to them at the onset.
Thanks for the great product…should be a great winter in Minnesota!

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Jim | October 8th, 2011

I’ve done a lot of research on fat bikes and I believe the Mukluk 2 is the best value for me. I’ve been waiting patiently to buy one so my question is simple…when will these bikes start shipping?  Can’t wait.  Thanks.

Chad from NCC | October 9th, 2011

Just something to add to everyone reading this that is just getting into Fat Bikes, they ride Single Track very well too! For the past year i have been riding my Muk everywhere i would usually ride another bike, and i have found how capable this bike really is. There is some climbs that are usually hard to clean due to traction, that this bike rolls right up.

Get a Muk, and ride it EVERYWHERE. Have a blast.

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | October 10th, 2011

Mark: I will inquire re: Mukluk Ti shipping time frame

Jim: Mukluk 2’s should be shipping this week

Chad: No, you cannot use the BB that comes with the Mukluk 3 with a Surly Mr Whirly or Mr Whirly MWOD crankset. Here’s my understanding: Just because the spindle/spline system looks like an ISIS system, doesn’t mean it actually is. Surly uses a proprietary design system meaning you need to use their bottom bracket for their cranksets. ALSO…remember that Mr Whirly with MWOD chainrings is different than the MWOD Complete Crankset. Read the explanation I gave up above again, as the MWOD Complete Crankset is going to move your chainrings outboard 2 entire chainring positions, and because you cannot move the cassette further outboard you may have some serious chainline issues. The Mr Whirly crankset with MWOD chainrings only moves the chainrings outboard one chainring position. Confusing stuff…

Chad from NCC: Amen brother. Mukluks ride great and can really rip up on plain old dirt singletrack. The big tires have so much traction that they even grip dry hardpack well. Big rubber equals big friction I suppose.

Errin | October 11th, 2011

I know this thread is about the ‘12s, but what about clearance issues on the ‘11s? If I read the post correctly, I have the wider crankset on my ‘11, but I only have the 80mm Fat Sheba rims. If I want to change to the 82mm Rolling Darryl rims will I have clearance issues? I’m guessing that even though there is only a 2mm difference, it’s enough that you felt it was worth the upgrade for the new models.


Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | October 11th, 2011

Errin: First thing, I’ll be the good angel on your shoulder and say ‘Just ride your Graceful Fat Sheba’s until you wear them out. Then worry about upgrading.’ And that actually is what I’d encourage.

If that doesn’t jive with you, then I’d suggest taking a look at your current setup. Think of it this way…82mm vs 80mm means 1mm wider on each side at the rim. That’ll have a small effect up on the rubber, but I don’t have an actual number to share.

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Brian | October 13th, 2011

Ok guys I’m having a difficult time this is going to be my first fat bike and I’m trying to make the choice between the 2 or 3 I like quality parts on my bikes as I actually ride them ? I know what I want but please try and help me justify it. LOL

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | October 13th, 2011

Brian: Clearly you must have the Mukluk 2. You deserve it.

Okay now…seriously…both are fine bikes and will provide a great ride.

The main thing is this: Get a fatbike. I truly believe they can give you a unique, different, and darn fun riding experience.

Good luck with your decision.

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steve | October 17th, 2011

Kid, I got my Muk 3 today, swapped the 12 to the back of the cassette, tightened up the derailleur to 8, all good :-)

but…. those brake levers have no place on a bike that costs ?1600 !!, swapped em out to Deores, and so should you guys, the brakes now work

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Bill | October 18th, 2011

My son has claimed my 2011 Mukluk and now I am collecting parts for my Ti Mukluk frame. that will hopefully arrive soon.

The Ti Mukluk frame tech tab shows a 27.2 seatpost. What is the recommended length for a small frame? Is the Pro Moto 1 Carbon up to the challenge?

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Matt | October 19th, 2011

Sweet looking bikes! If I lived closer to consistent snow (not a real factor in DC) one of these bad boys would be at the top of my Xmas list. Kudos to you for explaining the chain rub thing in such detail. Great to see a bike maker standing by their products and decisions, but also doing so in a way that doesn’t treat the customers like dummies! But if you can forgive a bit of word nerdery… There is only one A in “flotation” y’all! (Sorry, it was making me nuts! Just HAD to say something!)

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Mike | October 21st, 2011

What was the purpose of the frame redesign at the head tube on the 2012 vs the 2011?  Also, what do you think about using a Large Marge rim for strength, but running a Big Fat Larry to make up the width?  Would it fit without rubbing and still give good flotation performance?

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Mike | October 22nd, 2011

My LBS dished the rear wheel on my 2011 Mukluk a little to the non-drive side and I have tire rub issues at all.  My bottom bracket also has two spacers on the drive side.  Paramount Cycles in Anchorage knows how to set up a Mukluk.  If you are in AK and having tire rub issues, I suggest going there.

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Mike | October 22nd, 2011

Ooops…I meant “no tire rub issues at all.”

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Per | November 3rd, 2011

I have a 2011 Mukluk which I consider having the perfect geometry and in spite of years of mountainbiking I am stunned by the extreme fun factor of this budget bike. My current Mukluk is now however converted to carry my two kids on our forest and beach rides and spending 30 mins getting child seats off the bike to do some riding on my own is not my idea of fun, so I would need a Mukluk 2 or Ti Mukluk for my rides without kids. I do live mainly in the UK and I heard you don’t sell these two specific models here. Is this correct, or is there a way to sort this out?

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | November 4th, 2011

Per - Thanks for riding the Mukluk. I’d suggest contacting ISON (our UK distributor) and asking them directly what they are bringing in, and when. Here’s their info:

01353 662662

Enjoy your weekend.

Vik | November 5th, 2011

I’m a Pugs owner and built by rig up from parts using an Alfine 8 IGH. It has been working great for 3yrs of riding and chain/tire rub isn’t an issue.


It’s another option for resolving the chain/tire issue and give you great all weather shifting.

safe riding,


Vik | November 5th, 2011

Sorry - forgot the Muks use 170mm rear spacing. An IGH won’t work.


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Chuck L | November 7th, 2011

Hi Kid,

Great job with everything thats happening at Salsa…you guys seem to know your direction, Congrats.  Any word on when the ti mukluks are shipping.  I have one on order at my LBS and can’t wait.

Hope to see you at the Arrowhead.


Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | November 7th, 2011

Chuck L: Many thanks. I’ve been told that we expect Mukluk Ti framesets to arrive in our building next week. They go through QC check here though before shipping out so that adds some additional time. Yes, see you at the Arrowhead.

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Alan | November 8th, 2011

Has anyone, ever, sold a Mukluk in Canada?

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | November 8th, 2011

Alan - Sure have, eh? We have some 8 stocking dealers currently but some have sold out of Mukluks.

Email .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) with your questions and they can try to help you find one. Let them know where you are or that will be the first question they ask you.

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Alan | November 8th, 2011

Thanks Kid,
a snow bike up here just makes sense, Hoooooray!!!

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Dean | November 8th, 2011

Oh, and Vik…

Muks will work with an IGH, if you use the 170mm to 135mm adapter in the rear, and a Rohloff with a QR…or a Sturmey Archer 3 speed.

Vik | November 9th, 2011

@Dean - That’s cool. I’m surprised there aren’t more IGH fat bikes as the harsh conditions and chain/tire clearance issues are both seem to benefit from an internal drivetrain. I can’t find the 170mm-135mm adapter on the Salsa site can you point me in the right direction pls?

safe riding,


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Dean | November 9th, 2011


I don’t have a link for the part, but Salsa describes it here:


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Tim @ Salsa | November 9th, 2011

Hey just - just so you know ahead of time - the 135mm Offset adapter for the Mukluk cannot be used with any Internal gear hub, as the various methods used for non-turn fixing (Rohloff, Alfine) are not compatible with how the part is designed.

As of right now, we know of no internal gear hub fitments that work with Mukluk.

Thanks, Tim

Vik | November 9th, 2011

Thanks Dean. I’ll throw that up on my blog as I didn’t know this was available and there may be folks considering the Muk who might go for a different fatty because they want to run an IGH.

safe riding,


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Mark S | November 14th, 2011

Hey Kid: “I?ve been told that we expect Mukluk Ti framesets to arrive in our building next week.”
Now it’s next week. Any sign of those Mukluk Ti’s? Tuscobia is coming right up. Then Arrowhead of course.

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Tucker | November 14th, 2011

I have a question about the mukluk 2. My local dealer says they are sold out and there will not be any more available for 2012. Im bummmed ‘cause i’ve been saving to buy one in the spring.Can you dispell or confirm this?

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | November 15th, 2011

Mark S - Here is the latest info…we may see them arriving next week. Don’t kill the messenger but that is the best information we have.

Tucker - If your dealer has sold out of Mukluk 2’s I suggest you contact .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address). The guys will help you find either another dealer that still has some Mukluk 2’s in stock, or possibly a dealer that will move one of his bikes to your local dealer for you.

Thanks for your interest in the Mukluk guys.

Chris Hubick | November 25th, 2011


I just ordered a Mukluk Ti frameset (yay!).  I’m gonna try to run a single ring up front, either as a single-speed, or maybe 1x9.  I took your advice above and also ordered a Surly Mr. Whirly crank.  From what I understand, Surly currently lists only two types of 100mm wide crank setups, one for the Pugsley with a spindle having a 17.5mm offset, and one for the Moonlander with a spindle having a 28mm offset.  Since you mention you haven’t yet tried (what I assume to be) that Moonlander setup, I ordered the 17.5mm offset Pugsley setup, which I assume is what you are recommending people do?  I was just a little confused about the implications of that offset is all.


Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | November 28th, 2011

Chris: Yes, the Mr. Whirly Pugsley setup is what you want to create. If I’m reading your comment correctly you will be running only the middle ring, in which case you should be fine. If at a later time you wished to create more clearance you could switch to the MWOD chainrings which would shift your chainring positions one further to the outboard. I’m sure you will enjoy the Mukluk Ti!

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Masimo Giordano | December 1st, 2011

ho visto una vostra bike Mukluk3 vorrei sapere quanto costa e dove si puo trovare in Italy Grazie Giordano

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Chuck L | December 5th, 2011

Do you have an eta on the Ti Mukluk?

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Mark S | December 5th, 2011

Chuck L, I probably shouldn’t say, but here goes. I got mine this weekend and she is spectacular. Hope yours comes soon.

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | December 5th, 2011

Chuck L - They are in our building and shipping this week to the Salsa Authorized Dealers that ordered them. Check in with your dealer to remind them of your order.

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Joe Martin | December 15th, 2011

Hey Kid,
I don’t think you’ll remember me from Bishop’s Beach in Homer, Alaska, but you might remember my dog “Precious” trying to decrease the mm’s on your rear wheel (she says it helps decrease the “chain rub”)...
Nice, informative, thread.
Anyway, I Just ordered my “3” from Derek in Homer since nothing else was available.
Next time you guys visit, come up the hill and stay with me. Pat won’t mind (I have a hot tub).
—- P.S. Tell Pat I’ll spot him a Ti frame if he and Pierre (Frog Dog) will do the build up on mine after I chew up the “3”.
—- Joe Martin

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | December 15th, 2011

Hello Joe,

I do remember meeting you on the beach. Nice to hear from you and good to know you made it home on your walk! I’m sure you will enjoy the Mukluk 3. It is a good bike and will serve you well. Enjoy the snow, and the beach, and I will make sure Pat and Pierre know of your offer!

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MikeC | December 20th, 2011


You’ve hinted at solutions for it, but what does it take to get 100mm rims and BFLs in the back of the Mukluk?  I have last years Mukluk with the Hussefelt cranks.

Will removing 2-3 gears suffice, or is the MWOD required, or both?

I’d like some extra floatation for upcoming races (Susitna and White Mountain) and my girlfriend says I’m allready too skinny!


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Marty | January 8th, 2012

Just got a Mukluk 2 and can’t help but smile when I’m riding it.  I’m wondering if I can Switch out the stock bottom bracket cups for a Chris King Bottom Bracket.  Will the King BB work with the crankset?  Thanks,

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Wayne | January 27th, 2012

2 rides on my Mukluk 2 having a blast with it, now if we had any snow in the Toronto area I’d be able to test further.  If I could find some Nate’s that would be nice :)  Can the alternator dropout be used on this bike as well so I could run Single Speed?  I see it mentioned in the TI version only? 



Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | January 27th, 2012

Wayne: Currently, the Mukluk Ti is the only model that has Alternator Dropouts. It isn’t possible to adapt your frame to use the Alternator Dropouts as the frame must be designed with them as part of the structure.

While not as clean, you could always set up your Mukluk 2 with a singlespeed chain tensioner and run it single that way.

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | January 27th, 2012

Marty: No, it is not possible to use the Chris King BB with your E-13 crankset. The E-13 crankset must be used with the E-13 bearings, but they are excellent products.

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Jay Guerin | March 1st, 2012

Concerning the Chain   KMC Z99 Zinc Coated RustBuster, I have not lubed it and don’t think it’s a good idea.  I ride the Mukluk in the Arizona desert, deep sand, silt, dust, and gravel.  Seems lube would just attract a lot of muck and crud.  What do you think?

Been riding Salsas since the “Ross” days.

Antique Pedaler

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MikeyBoy | March 5th, 2012

... Sorry if anybody has asked before.. but will there be a Mukluk 2 out in Fall 2012 (2013 model) ????  I want to put deposit down on one. and if not, when will 2013 Mukluk 3’s be out ?

thanks !


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Filip | March 6th, 2012

On the Ti model (in case is different than the Alu models), when using 2 chainrings upfront, what is possible at the back without tire rub? 8-speed, 9-speed or also 10-speed?


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andy | March 12th, 2012

im looking to buy a fat bike for use in the desert of the middle east.. yes we have loads of sand here, so looking for the bike that offers the best possible floatation..

I’m new to this whole fat bike thing and dont even know where to start, one more point I would need to make is that a frame should be in white.. anyone ever felt how hot a black frame gets in the sun when an ambient temperature is 45 degrees c..???


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Angry Andy | March 22nd, 2012

Just built up a Ti Mukluk this winter, thru the great guys at NNC in DeKalb,  built it up as a dingle speed with a single brake lever and cable splitter to handle both disc’s.  The bike is awesome even if we did get short changed with the snow this winter,  Will be racing it this weekend at the Wisconsin State Fat Bike Race.  Got some great pictures if you would like them.  thanks Andy

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Angry Andy | March 25th, 2012

Here is a link to my ride:    http://fatbikegallery.com/?page_id=779    And a correction on the bike shop it is North Central Cyclery in DeKalb IL

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Caroline O'Grady | May 21st, 2012

Hi there ... I LOVE the salsa mukluk 3 and I am looking everywhere for one. The problem is that I live in Toronto, Canada and am finding it extemely difficult to find someone that will sell me one of these great bikes. I have to use my next work payment for June rent - however, I would be so happy to be able to use the cheque after that for one of the salsa 3 mukluk bikes. The medium bike would be perfect. Is there any chance you would save it for me for a few weeks? I am also willing to put whatever I can on a down payment for this bike. Thanks!!
Caroline O’Grady

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Duc Hunter | May 22nd, 2012

I am new to the fat bike world, and would mainly use it for the beach and backwoods of Florida. I would KILL to have a Ti fat bike, and love the Mukluk Ti. I want to run an IGH though (preferably the Alfine because it is less $$$) and am shocked there are so many non-IGH compatible frames out there. If the Mukluk Ti was IGH’able I would already have my purchase in. Any chance this is coming?

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Scriv | July 31st, 2012

Are there any updates or new fixes to the chain rub issue? Alternatively, has this been addressed for 2013, and might the change be retrofitted to a 2012?  Thanks

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Scriv | August 1st, 2012

Ah, never mind.  I went to the dealer to check it out.  As fussy as I am it seemed like a non issue to me.  Nice bike.

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Brian | August 2nd, 2012

What kind of pedals does everyone use on their fat bikes?

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Brian | August 3rd, 2012

Kid can you please make sure Jason from Tonka Cycle is able to order and actually get me my XL 2013 Muk 2 before they are all gone LOL I’m just trying to make sure I can finally get one this year and I’m a good person to have riding your brand I talk to everyone.
Thanks Brian

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | August 3rd, 2012

Duc Hunter - IGH is an interesting idea but our Mukluk rear spacing is 170mm, so a 170mm IGH hub would be needed.

Scriv - Stay tuned.

Brian - Pedal choice…some use clipless, some use flats. Personal preference. No right or wrong. My personal choice is flats for a few reasons: I like to be able to get off the bike easily, walk anywhere off-trail comfortably and easily, and I feel it is easier to have warm feet in winter without cleats on the bottom of my shoes. But that is just my opinion. Also…talk to Jason from Tonka as they have the opportunity to place your bike on order now. Thanks for the interest.

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Brian | August 3rd, 2012

I have one question for you. Is it true only the Green and White Muk 2 will be available as a complete and not the Black and Purple?

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Brian Hanson | August 22nd, 2012

Ok I have a choice between a 2012 and a 2013 Muk 2 both brand new which one and why any major differences?

Kid Riemer

Kid Riemer | August 22nd, 2012

Brian - We’ll have a post on the 2013 Mukluk updates sometime next week. Which to buy? Well there are a lot of differences…finish, dropouts, weight, geometry…

If you don’t feel like waiting till next week I can assure you that you will love the 2012 Mukluk 2. It is a great bike.

Don Phillips | August 23rd, 2012


Can you please suggest a hub generator that will work with the Mukluk 3 spoke alignment and can handle being under water from time-to-time?


Don Phillips

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Scoty | September 27th, 2012

Will the 2013 mukluk 3 have the same chain rub problems that the 2012 model. Also will the orange model be avaiable in the uk or green only
Would it be possible to fit an alfine 130 mm rear hub with adaptors? Are there any avaiable for 2013 model

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