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Building Up a Spearfish Frame

This post is geared towards those individuals who are planning to build up a complete bike from a Spearfish frame. The intent is to let you know what parts the Spearfish frame requires to get it rolling, any peculiarities that influence component spec, and also to let you know what component options are available to you.

Building up a Spearfish frame is pretty straight forward. Only the headset and BB/cranks require special consideration. All the other components needed are your standard mountain and 29er type components. As always, I encourage you to consult your local Salsa dealer or local bike shop if you are at all intimidated or confused by anything you read here. They have the knowledge to help get this sorted for you.

Let's start with what's inside the box:

1. Spearfish frame w/ Lip-Lock seat collar and rear derailleur hanger

2. Rock Shox Monarch R rear air shock, and reducer kit (the shock will already be installed on the frame)

If you are missing something, first check the box and the packaging. If you still are having trouble, contact the shop you got your frameset from. If you are a shop reading this, it's time to call Salsa.

Headset:

The Spearfish's headtube uses a tapered zero stack (ZS) design. This allows you to run either a tapered steerer (1-1/8" to 1-1/2") fork, or a straight  steerer (1-1/8") fork. Here's how:

For a tapered steerer tube (1-1/8" to 1.5") fork you need a ZS44/28.6 | ZS56/40 spec headset. The picture below is a Cane Creek 40 model ZS headset. On the left is the lower assembly; a 56mm O.D. ZS lower cup, bearing, and race for a 1.5" steerer.  On the right is the upper assembly; a 44mm ZS top cup, bearing, and top cap for a 1-1/8' steerer.  Other manufacturer's also make this style of headset.  Most refer to them as "tapered ZS".  King refers to their version as "tapered InSet".

Tapered ZS headset

For a straight steerer tube (1-1/8") fork you need a ZS44/28.6 | ZS56/30 spec headset. The key difference here is the "30".  What this means is you use the same 56mm ZS lower cup and bearing, but then switch out the 1.5" crown race for a 1-1/8" reducing crown race. The picture below shows this "reducing" 30mm I.D. crown race on the left.  (The original 1.5" race with a 40mm I.D. is shown on the right for comparison. Remember this race is not actually needed for straight steerer forks.)

Some headsets are offered standard with the reducing 30mm race, and other instances, you need to buy the standard tapered ZS headset and then buy the reducing crown race seperately.

Bottom Bracket:

The Spearfish frame is designed for a Press-Fit BB30 bottom bracket. Press-Fit BB30 is different from BB30. For Press-Fit, the bearings are captured in seperate cups, which are then pressed into the frame. This greatly simplifies the requirements and manufacturing of the BB shell compared to what is required for a standard BB30 system. The end result is all the benefits of a BB30 system, without the tight tolerance and higher cost associated with machining a BB shell for standard BB30. This is one of the reasons we chose to use PFBB30 on the Spearfish.  The other reason is that BB30 bearings allow you to run either BB30 cranks, or any 24mm straight spindle-type crank (Shimano, RaceFace, FSA MegaEXO) via reducer cups.

The photo below shows a SRAM PFBB30 bottom bracket.

And this is what it looks like installed in the frame.

Currently, SRAM is the only manufacturer of a Press-Fit BB30 bottom bracket, but I can assure you, more options are on the way in the very near future.

For BB30 cranks, your current options are anything from SRAM/TruVativ in 2x or 3x.  The only exception being the Q-156 XX cranks.  As, I mentioned, more PFBB30 and BB30 crank combos will be available from other manufacturer's soon.

Side Note: If you refer back to the pictures of the SRAM PFBB30, you will notice there is a nice dust cover, and underneath this, a seal sitting on top of the bearing. SRAM did this to protect the bearings, which greatly increases their useable life. Because of this detail, and the different pre-load adjuster FSA uses, FSA BB30 cranks do not currently play nice with SRAM PFBB30 bottom brackets.

The photo below shows a SRAM BB30 crank. Simply pop it through the PFBB30 bottom bracket, add the correct spacer or wavy washer depending on the model, set the pre-load, and you are ready to go.

As I mentioned earlier, you can also use a straight 24mm spindle type crankset too. This includes any of the more common Shimano, RaceFace, FSA Mega EXO cranks, among others. The key is the straight 24mm diameter spindle. These type of cranks can be installed into the PFBB30 bottom bracket via a Problem Solver's PressFit 30 adapter kit. Below is a picture of the kit. Inlcuded are two 1.7mm thick spacers. These are only used when converting on a standard BB30 bottom bracket. The Spearfish uses a the Press-Fit standard, so the spacers are not needed.

The photo below shows the adapter cups pushed into the PFBB30 bottom bracket. 

At this point, you can install your 24mm spindle crankset per the manufacturer's specification and per the instructions included with the Problem Solvers adapter kit.

Side Note: Wheel's Manufacturing also makes an adapter cup for running 24mm spindle cranks on BB30 bottom brackets. This adapter will not technically work on a PFBB30 bottom bracket. The Wheel's cups are sized to rest directly against BB30 bearings. SRAM's PFBB30 bottom bracket has those fancy seals and dust caps, not to mention the bearings themselves are in a *slightly* different location in the BB. If you were to install the Wheel's Mfg adapters on the PFBB30 bottom bracket, the overall width is about 3.3mm wider than the width the cranks are designed to install across.

Everything Else:

The rest of the bike takes standard mountain components. Features to note:

29er wheel size, 135mm rear spacing, disc only.

Frame is designed for any 100mm travel 29er suspension fork (tapered or straight, as per above)

Frame can accomodate any 2x or 3x, 9-speed or 10-speed drivetrain (crank/bb requirement as per above)

Rear brake mount is the 51mm I.S. type. 140mm-185mm rotors are acceptable

Front derailleur requirement is 35mm high clamp - bottom pull (low clamp types don't fit)

Seatpost size is 31.6mm

Seatcollar is included, but if you want to upgrade to a QR-style, the collar size is 35.0mm

The frame will take up to a 2.25" tires comfortably (anything bigger is at your own risk, and no, I can't anwser your specific tire size question, sorry)

Rear shock is included, but if you want to upgrade, the size is 165mm (6.5") x 38mm (1.5"), and both ends take an 8mm x 22.2mm reducer kit.

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So that's pretty much it.  Hopefully it'll look something like this when you are finished:

Your local Salsa dealer can get the whole thing sorted for you no problem. If you are the type to do things on your own, remember, they are there to help when you get stuck.

Happy 'fishing!

This post filed under topics: Pete Koski Spearfish Tech

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Pete Koski

Hi, I'm Pete and I am a product development engineer for Salsa. I like all kinds of riding from commuting to dirt jumping. I think flat pedals make you a better bike handler, that the thru-axle is vastly superior to the quick-release for off-road applications, and that moving through the world on bicycle allows one to see things they might not otherwise. I suffer daily from hunger-induced anger, also known as hanger. Outside of work and riding, I enjoy kiteboarding, traveling, and watching hockey.

COMMENTS (65)

Hansel12 | February 10th, 2011

Excellent, just what I was looking for!

Elvis | February 10th, 2011

very informative. Thanks guys.

Tim Ek | February 10th, 2011

Great post! Thanks Pete. Answers my questions.

Perry Jewett | February 10th, 2011

Thanks for the info.  I am looking forward to building the first Spearfish in Spearfish.  I am thinking I will go with the suggested Sram and Cane Creek with a taper steer tube.  Unfortunately or however you look at it, the trails in Spearfish are covered by about 2’ of snow.  Pedal Power!

David Kent | February 10th, 2011

You guys are awesome thanks for the info. I built my Spearfish with FSA 9 speed triple cranks . You are right they do not play nice but still work . I used differential shims for the pinion of an automotive rear end to get things just right . Thank you .

JK | February 11th, 2011

Excellent info! I just got my complete Spearfish and will tear it all down to swap out some stuff. The press fit bb30 is new to me as well as the new 2X10 stuff. Can’t wait for the snow to melt to put away the Puglsey and start ripping it up on the Spearfish. This is my first Salsa. Totally impressed with the quality and engineering. You guys really hit it out of the park!

Andy H | February 11th, 2011

Can you buy a Sram crankset (X9 or AKA) with a PF30 BB or do you need to buy a BB30 crankset and order a seperate PF30 BB?  I want to use an AKA crankset but can’t seem to find one online with a PF30 BB.

Steve | February 11th, 2011

You say the rear can accept 160-185mm rotors, any reason a 140 won’t work?  I would think a 140 rear is perfect for this bike.

Dan | February 11th, 2011

The article says that you use a PressFit BB30 with a BB30 crankset and that you should note the difference between a typical BB30 BB and a press fit version.

You buy SRAM Crankset designed for BB30, but you make sure you get a SRAM Pressfit BB30 bottom bracket (pressfit30 or whatever you want to call it). They just note to avoid XX cranks with a Q-factor of 56 (narrower), probably due to chainstay clearance.

PK | February 11th, 2011

Perry - If it’s gonna be winter there might as well be snow at least, eh?

Andy - As fas as I know, I have only seen BB30 bearings offered with some SRAM cranksets.  So you will need to buy the BB30 crank, and the PFBB30 bottom bracket, seperately.

Steve - Forgot about 140mm rotors when writing the post, thanks for catching that.  Yes these work, please note however, we have only had a chance to check Elixir and BB7 caliper bodies in this size during the development period.

fred | February 11th, 2011

I don’t mean to be fresh, but haven’t we seen that lower pivot design on a giant ac frame in 2000?

Ti | February 13th, 2011

can I run 80mm fork ?

PK | February 14th, 2011

Ti,

We spend a lot of time testing out different angles, drops, geometry, fork lengths, etc. during development of a new frame or bike.  Spearfish was no exception.  The final geometry settled on is what we feel best represents the intended use and spirit of the product we set out to build.  That said, geomerty and handling are certainly subjective matters. I can tell you an 80mm fork would result in a 71.9 degree HTA and a 52mm BB drop.  You will have to decide if that works for you.

(Salsa hat off; That is too much BB drop for me, on a sus bike.)

Good luck.

Shane | February 15th, 2011

Steve, check my review on MTBR.com search “Spearfish First Ride Impressions”

I swapped out my race wheels which have a 140mm rotor, fits just fine.

My question to Salsa, why didn’t you choose post mount on the rear brake?

PK | February 15th, 2011

Shane,

We chose not to use post mount so people like you could run 140mm rotors!

Dave | February 18th, 2011

Just caught me a 20” Spearfish at Universal Cycles in Portland. It’s a Mean Green Machine. Thanks for sweating the details on the build kit, Stans rims, green ano bling. etc. nice kit all around.

One question, can the stock Reba RL on the bike be fitted with a remote lockout? I assume it can (my other Reba’s have been) but just wanted to double check.

Luciano | February 20th, 2011

Hi,
first my compliments for this best frame 29er, I am a great
appasionate of mtb and I want buy the Spearfish frame -size SMALL-
in Europe,but each seller-that I know ,almost 4 and CBO in the States- says that the frame will be sent from you and sold after june or julie,it is true ?
Where can I buy this frame ? In the summer is too late,because in Italy it is very hot to race or simply ride the bike !
Thanks a lot for your answer.
Luciano

Brian | February 27th, 2011

Hi-
Anyone know if the Problem Solvers PF30 adapter will work with Truvativ GXP 24mm cranks?  According to the PS site they are not compatible, but thought maybe others had different experiences.  Have the frame already and have relatively new truvativ stylo oct cranks with the intention of running 2x9…..thanks!
Brian

PK | March 2nd, 2011

Dave - The stock Reba RL can have a remote lockout added, but it requires more than just the lever, you need to replace the top unit on the damper side with a lock-out equipped version.

Brian - Currently the PS adapter does not work with a GXP crankset. This is due to the difference in spindle diameter from left to right on those cranks.  I can tell you that the PS Team is currently working on and testing a shim that will mod the system to work with GXP.  If/when this comes to market though, I cannot say.

Dave | March 7th, 2011

Thanks PK, I got ‘er done with a kit from my lbs ordered from QBP. 00.4015.681.050 is the SRAM part number for the kit with left hand pushloc and damper unit.

Now if the weather gods and cold/flu season will just give me a break and let me ride!

Ryan | March 8th, 2011

Is the Reba 9mm or 15mm? Thanks

Luciano | April 5th, 2011

Hi,
after many problems,finally I have finished my Salsa Spearfish , that I have called for many esoteric components “Ultimate ” .The final weight is-pedals included- only 9,9 kg !You can see it on YOUTUBE as
“SALSA SPEARFISH 29er Ultimate only 9,9 kg. by HOBBYBIKEF1 “
Tell me your remarks !
Greetings from Rome-Italy

Jim | April 17th, 2011

Had a few questions when will the next batch of spearfish be avail, will there be any other shocks available, can a 120mm fork be used on a xl frame, and is this the dos niner replacement?
Thanks
Jim

Jason | April 23rd, 2011

Hello Pete,
Had a few questions about the spearfish build. First what is the chain link count on the complete bike and is it a 1 1/8 fork or is the tapered have more control . Also can I go with a 140mm fork I am a big guy 6’6 300+ thanks
Jason

PK | April 25th, 2011

Jason,

The OE chain has 114 links.

The fork is the tapered version.  The front end stiffness and tracking mostly comes from the combination of the tapered head tube, the down tube, and the larger diameter PFBB30 bottom bracket shell. Designing for a tapered steerer allows for the use of these frame parts.  Together they create a very stiff foundation for the front triangle. Throwing the tapered steerer into the mix certainly doesn’t hurt either.  People that opt to use a standard straight 1-1/8in steerer will still benefit from the stiff front traingle, they just give up a small fraction at the steerer/crown in the fork.  I have run both steerer versions and seen no noticeable decline in performance.

I would not recommend using a 140mm fork.  The geometry will be severly altered. We did not design, nor test (validate) the frame for a fork that length. Running a longer fork than recommended voids the warranty.  If you want a stout front end, I would recommend using any 100mm fork with a thru-axle. All the newer 15mm and 20mm thru-axle forks on the market have significantly stiffer chassis than older QR models.  Fox just released a new 29er fork at Sea Otter.  One of these in a 100mm version would certainly be a great option.

Jason | April 26th, 2011

Thanks Pete for your quick response . So 120mm fork would also void the warranty(so 100mm can only be used )? I did check out the fox forks very impressive wow .The fox forks are a much stiffer shock then the Reba is this correct for a heavier rider ? Now I am going to have ask ask ask lol. So on the brakes I see 185 in the front 160 in the back is there a big difference on adding the 185 to the front or will 160 work fine ? The canecreek angle set new head set(what are your thoughts) Also I was curious on the set up of the X.9 rear derail vs just going with x.7 like the rest of the build ? Thanks again
Jason

Jason | May 9th, 2011

Hey Pete where are you at don’t leave me hanging !!!!!

PK | May 9th, 2011

Jason,

Sorry for the slow response, I was out in Salida, CO “working” with a few others from the Salsa crew. It was a real tough trip. A lot of meetings and late nights.

To your questions:

Yes, only up to 100mm forks are officially endorsed for use with the Spearfish.  This mainly has to do with what we fatigue test and certify during development. Sometimes we design and test a frame for a range of fork lengths, other times we narrow it down.  The Spearfish happens to be of the latter scenario. My comments posted above on Feb 14th, 2011 also still hold true, whether it’s a shorter or longer fork.

As far as the Fox fork vs. the RockShox Reba, I can’t tell you with any authority which is stiffer. I can tell you that we here at Salsa have had great luck with both makes.  The main key for the clydesdale (+200) rider is to get a thru-axle version (20mm or 15mm) and use a stout front wheel build.  The new Fox 34 w/ 15mm TA adjusted down to 100mm of travel would in theory be a very stiff fork chassis.

A 160mm front rotor works fine.  Most disc brake systems these days are more than powerful enough to lock up with 160 rotors.  The 185 front offers a little lighter finger pressure (or quicker lock up) to achieve the same amount of braking torque about the front axle (compared to a 160). It also provides a little better heat dissipation due to more mm of braking surface in the rotor.

I’m a fan of the Cane Creek AngleSet, but only because it means I don’t have to have 3 prototypes built with different HTAs during development of a product. I can test multiple HTAs on a single frame. As far as using one on your own frame, go for it, but I would again refer to my comments posted on Feb 14th, 2011.

The X.9 RD was spec’d to match the X.9 cranks, as they share some similar graphic treatments, and are more visually prominent than the shifters or FD. The stuff that is X.7 was spec’d instead of X.9 to keep the overall MSRP where we wanted it.

I think I covered it all.

gian | June 3rd, 2011

Dear Salsa Crew, I will have the pleasure to built up a brand new Spearfish frame Large size (expected within a couple of weeks), but I’m still collecting all the components, and expecially the brakes, could you just suggest me the hose’s lenght expecially for the resr one, approximately??? thank you very much

Anthony | June 3rd, 2011

Just ordered my Spearfish, wondering - why spec the Nano Raptor but show the complete bike with a different tire? I would rather have the WTB Wolverine as shown instead…....thanks.

Ken | June 6th, 2011

I have the 2011 XT will that work with the searfish setup. Thanks

gian | June 6th, 2011

ops… sorry but I forgot another question: is the frame already “pre-machined” according to Sram PF30 shell specification and Headset within tolerances according to S.H.I.S. or I have to ream and face both of ‘em?? thanks

Hudnut | June 24th, 2011

regarding the Sram PFBB30 bottom bracket and the use of FSA bb30 cranks (comet to be specific). is there significant interference with the dust shield of the Sram BB? would it be possible for a machine shop to take down the pre-load adjuster of the cranks to allow the seal to function properly? or should I wait for FSA to release their own pf 30 BB?

PK | June 24th, 2011

FSA now has a PF30 BB.  QBP does not have them in stock yet, but to the best of my knowledge, they are on order.

jmac | June 29th, 2011

Very informative forum here on the Spearfish. I’m looking into one of these frames. 5’-6”/135# rider. I have a Kula 2-9r setup SS with a e13/Hive crankset. Was thinking about going 1x with it but after seeing the SF, and wanting fs for my 50= y.o. body, I noticed 2/3x cranks were mentioned but wondering if this crank would work? If not, I have a 960xtr 3x or an FSA Afterburner set up 2x w/Salsa bash ring. Are those compatible w/ the pfbb30?

Have everything else covered,Hope Mono Mini 140 rr disc,100mm Reba,Stans wheelset etc. 

thx in advance.

Jeremy | June 29th, 2011

Anything out yet about the GXP conversion kit?

PK | June 30th, 2011

Jmac - Short answer is YES. Using straight 24mm spindle type cranks is detailed in the original post above, both cranks you listed are this type.

Jeremy - Problem Solvers is currently testing samples to make sure they perform up to expectations.  Expect the kit to be available this fall.  For people that need a solution now - SRAM/Truvativ now make an adaptor cup that effectively converts a 46mm Pressfit30 shell to standard english threading. This allows for any of the current outboard crank/BBs to be used, including GXP. The one on my desk is only 42 grams! I couldn’t find it on SRAM website, but if you search for “sram/truvativ pressfit 30 to english” you will get plenty of hits. For those that go this route, be sure to install the outboard BB cups into the adaptors FIRST, and then press the adaptor/BB cup assembly into the frame one side at a time.  Switching these steps will result in not being able to properly snug up the BB cups in to the adaptor.

jmac | June 30th, 2011

Thx PK, so to be clear, the Hive SS crank will work 1x if i choose to go that route?

Again tia.

PK | June 30th, 2011

Makes no difference that it is 1x - a 50mm chainline is very typical for mountain cranks. (Same general location as a middle ring on mtn triples) Since the Hive/E.13 crank uses a 30mm spindle sized to install across english threaded outboard bearing cups, you will need to use the Sram/Truvativ adaptor.

Cole | July 27th, 2011

Can you include QBP part #s for the headset adapters for straight 1-1/8 forks? seems like there’s a couple options, and i wanna make sure we get the right parts!
Thanks!

Manny | July 27th, 2011

Whatup Fellas?  Just picked up a M frame.  Also, ordered a sram PF30 bearing system for it.  According to these post, my best bet is to stick with a sram BB30 crankset, right?  I want to stay with BB30 for this bike and stay away from the BB reducers, if I can.  Man too bad, because there is some good deals out there on some FSA afterburner BB30 cranks.  Also, will the CaneCreek xxzs-3 1.5/1 1/8 headset work with this frame?  Also, if anyone out there whose build up a salsa spearfish with the sram PF30 with a bb30 crankset other then sram, post a follow up.  I am curious to see what your set up is.  Thanks,
Manny from Tucson.

hudnut | July 28th, 2011

I just finished building up my medium frame.  I used the FSA comet 386 bb30 cranks with the sram pf30 bottom bracket.  you just have to remove the dust seals with a pick. I have pictures in the salsa section on MTBR.

kurt | August 19th, 2011

Manny, I’ve tried a whole host of different BB/crank options on my Spearfish and Ti El Mariachi (both with PF30 shells). If you can, I would strongly suggest using a standard PF30 BB and BB30 crankset. The Truvativ cranks have been great in my experience. I’ve used a Shimano SLX Hollowtech II crank with the PS adapters, but it’s a bit creaky and definitely far less stiff than the BB30 axle. I’ve also used GXP cranks in the PF30 BB with a few different adapters, and again, there’s often a bit of creaking, but more importantly, it’s a pain to get the bearing tension just right. My current setup uses the Truvativ BB30 crank, and the thing spins like butter with no creaking. The lesson I learned in all this? Keep things simple…

jmac | August 20th, 2011

@ KURT-Exactly which Truvativ BB30 did you use, the X9? I searched thru retail sites and there seems to be several. And I thought I read in mtbr about seizing problems on some of the oem builds with these cranks(could be mistaken?). I did buy the Shimano PS kit for my 960 XTR cranks with my frame order from Speeedgoat. But reading more on this and seeing your posts I’m not so sure I want to use these/adaptors now. Plus looking at them I may need to invest in a couple new chainrings which could end up being close to a new BB30 crankset $$. Ugh.. Thanks

@ PK-Re: My Hive crankset and PFB30. Do these using the Sram/Truv adaptor work better then the Shimano cranks and the PS adaptor? Compatibility/sealing wise I mean? Sorry in advance if this is a clear question.

Thanks in advance.

El Kincho | November 17th, 2011

Hi,
I was thinking about fitting a Fox F29 fork with a 51mm crown offset (Fisher G2). Would the crown offset be a problem with the Spearfish geometry?? Thanks.

PK | November 17th, 2011

Kincho,

We spend a lot of time testing out different angles, drops, geometry, fork lengths, etc. during development of a new frame or bike.  Spearfish was no exception.  The final geometry settled on is what we feel best represents the intended use and spirit of the product we set out to build.  That said, geomerty and handling are certainly subjective matters. I can tell you a 51mm offset fork would result in a 0.1 degree steeper HTA, a 1mm lower BB, 6mm increase in front-center, and 6.5mm reduction in trail. Overall the steering will be quicker and lighter. You will have to decide if that works for you.

????? | November 20th, 2011

Hi, i want a buy this frame, please help me, i am afraid about strength of rear triangle(thick and sections tubes) - for what a maximum weight and height of rider projecting the frame? i am 100 kg weight and 200 cm height. Very Very big thank you

?? ?????? ? ??????? :) ???????? ?? ??? ??????????

El Kincho | November 21st, 2011

I’m looking at buying a near new fork that has had the steerer cut to 170mm. Is that enough length to fit to my new Large Spearfish frame?? Thanks.

Tony | February 3rd, 2012

Just got my frame today (thanks to the guys at Bikeman for great service) & have started building it up.

The finish on the frame is awesome!  Cant wait to get it finished & take it for a ride.

One question PK.  The rear chain stays seem to be offset to one side, resulting in tight clearance on the right side of the tyre & a heap of clearance on the left (no its not the rim, I checked that).  I just wanted to confirm that this is correct & the frame has been designed that way.

Cheers

PK | February 3rd, 2012

Tony,

Thanks for choosing a Salsa!  Regarding the chainstays on your bike - I can’t say for certain without seeing it. The rear triangle is asymmetric and the drive side chainstay end forging reaches further back and lower than the non-drive. This could be causing an optical illusion…?  If you still think something is not right the best thing to do is get into you local dealer or shop and check out the dropout alignment with some drumsticks, and then check the alignment of theRT to the FT. If something is goofy, the shop (or Bikeman) will then get in touch with Salsa and we’ll get you fixed up asap.

hudnut | February 3rd, 2012

@Tony. not to question your ability but what method did you use to check the dish of the rim?

Tony | February 3rd, 2012

Have posted some pics of the rear clearance here.

As previously mentioned the tyre is centered in between the seat stays.
I guessing the difference in the chain stay clearance would be the design for clearance around the chain rings on the RHS, resulting in less tyre clearance on that side.

Tony | February 9th, 2012

Hi PK,

Can you email me directly about this.  There is a misalignment in the rear swing arm.
Cheers
Tony

PK | February 9th, 2012

Tony,

Please call Salsa at 1-877-668-6223 and they will get you this straightened out. There is a process and people in place to help get you rolling, and it starts with that phone call.

Thanks,
Pete

Tony | February 9th, 2012

Thanks PK, but I believe the guys at Bikeman have already been in touch with your people about a replacement swingarm.

Paul | February 27th, 2012

I am attempting to remove my pfbb30 and sram x9 crank from my 2011 spearfish and install it on my 2012 spearfish 2. What tools would you recommend for this procedure and are there any detailed instructions available online for the crank and bearing removal?

PK | February 28th, 2012

Remove the drive-side crank arm from the spindle using a 10mm allen wrench. Then, using a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet, tap the spindle and left crank arm out of the frame from the drive to non-drive side.  Getting the PF30 BB out is a little more delicate procedure.  You will probably want something like this:
http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-set-for-bb30-bbt-30-3
Note that it’s also easier to just get a new PF30 BB and leave the old one in the other frame. Getting them out is not as easy as putting them in. Many times, the plastic shell becomes damaged during removal.

Putting it all back together in the new frame in reverse order. Be sure to grease all contact surfaces.  A headset press works best for getting the PF30 BB into the frame. Grease the bearings surfaces on the spindle and tap it back through the frame. Be sure to torque the drive crank arm back on to spec and get the preload adjuster set correctly. 

It’s not a difficult procedure, but requires a few special tools, so if you are not “feeling it”, have you local shop do it, it’s a quick job for a trained mechanic with the correct tools.

Josh | February 28th, 2012

Ok.. I’ve been reading up on BB30 vs PFBB30 and am trying to get a handle on it.

If my frame requires a PF30 BB, then can I use BB30 cranks?  Does a PF30 BB require different crank type than BB30? 

thanks,

Josh

Martin | March 26th, 2012

I just bought an XL Spearfish 1 frame.  I also have an XL Mamasita, which I’ve set up to fit me well.  Can I copy my setup from the Mamasita to the Spearfish or should I make any adjustments to bar length, stem length, etc. ??

BTW I bought the ?Enduro Ceramic PressFit30 BB for use in the Spearfish and am planning on using Shimano cranks. This BB comes with reducers. I’ll report back how the installation goes.

andersson | April 21st, 2012

please help me!!!!!! i have specialized stumpjumper comp carbon 2010, and using the press fit system and Factory comes with a BB91-42 bottom bracket shimano. I wanna know what I have to put a bottom bracket to use an FSA K-Force crankset BB-30.

Stuart | April 24th, 2012

HI, Just bought an XL with the Reba RL 20mm maxel, now all I have to do is build it up.

What length brake cables do I need for the XL frame?

Spevefetsheer | August 26th, 2012

hi
i hope that i am posting in the right section..
Actually we are promoting our services in different forums because of the current economic situation we are really outmof orders.
Just wanted to make announcment here that we provide professional and affordable maids services in San jose CA california
..
thank

hracka,Hracky pre dievcata | November 25th, 2012

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hracky pre chlapcov, ale aj Dojcenske hracky, Hracky pre dievcata, Hracky pre chlapcov, hracky ,hracky pre dievcata .

Clink | November 28th, 2012

Hi

I’ve read all the info and searched loads of threads (probably a bad idea!).

I’m 5’10”, 32” inside leg (in trousers). Would like to run 70mm stem and 710 flat bars - medium ok, or should I go large. Or medium with 90mm stem?

Please help, it’s doing my head in!

Kid Riemer | December 11th, 2012

Clink - Fitting a person to a bike is very difficult if not impossible via a website guess, but here are my thoughts. For the record I’m 5’10” with a 30” inseam.

I would go with the size Large if you are hoping to run the 70mm stem.

Best would be to see a dealer if possible, and have them try to help size you. Remember, you can look at our geometry chart and relate it to geo charts from other brands or bike models you might have experience with already.

Thanks for your interest in the Spearfish.

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