Bikepacking The Cape Loop

Riding Under a Painted Sky: A Watercolor Trip around the Cape Loop of Baja

Usually, when I complete a route on my bucket list it’s out of my system, and I can start planning and looking ahead to future adventures. This proved not to be the case with Baja. The first time I visited the Baja peninsula with my bike, I knew I’d go back many more times and that I’d never be without some watercolors and a sketchbook.

Two years ago, I had an amazing opportunity between jobs to spend a full month and a half riding the Baja Divide route. At the end, I ran out of time to do what is often referred to as the “Jewel of Baja” — the Cape Loop. The Cape Loop is a 455 km circle at the very bottom tip of Baja and is logistically simple since you and your bike can fly into either La Paz or Cabo San Lucas. This year, I decided to go back to Baja with my Timberjack Ti and explore the Cape Loop with my watercolors and plenty of time.

Pepper’s Timberjack Ti parked outside of motel, loaded with bikepacking gear; seatpack, framepack, and handlebar bag

I set aside ten days and flew with my bike from Anchorage to Cabo San Lucas on Alaska Air since bikes under 50 pounds fly free. I had read online about a cheap motel in Cabo, the Cactus Inn Hotel, that will give you a free ride to and from the airport with your bike and even store your bike box while you are adventuring. I was unable to get a hold of anyone in advance to book a room, so I decided to just wing it at the airport. Sure enough, I found a minivan near the entrance of the airport labeled Cactus Inn Hotel and I got a ride and a room, with free storage for my bike box, for about $40. I hit the pool to cool off as I tried to adjust to the extreme climate change between Alaska and Mexico, then built up my bike and went to sleep.

Collage; Pepper with hat and sunglasses smiling next to parked bike, beach and ocean shoreline

The next day, I said goodbye to my hosts and hit a convenience store, where I purchased a couple days’ worth of tortillas, cheese, tomatoes, avocado, and those amazing squeeze packets of refried beans that are found everywhere in Baja. I hit the road and began riding the Cape Loop route clockwise. Many people ride the route counterclockwise, but I have a lot of friends in Todos Santos, so I decided to aim to get there towards the end of the route so I wouldn’t feel rushed to leave.

Tent set-up on the beach, bike parked with clothes draped on handlebars, blue sky with pink clouds at sunset


Illustration of hills and ocean with tent and bike painted watercolor. Titled Bikepacking Baja, signed and dated by Pepper

I spent the next couple days pedaling the east coast of the Loop and camping on the beach. It’s free to camp at any Arroyos, the sandy, dried riverbeds that often meet the sea in Baja. There are usually some fun, colorful characters camped there for months at a time from November to March, and I quickly made friends and found myself in a game of Rummikub on my first night on the beach near Los Barriles. A big highlight was watching clouds of stingrays jumping out of the water in big groups and flopping back into the water like crazed pancakes. After some research, I found out they sometimes jump in order to avoid predators and to shake off parasites. I absolutely loved the rugged, sandy coastal road of the east side of the Cape Loop. It rides like a rollercoaster track full of big climbs and rocky descents, with incredible crystal-clear turquoise ocean views and whale spotting.

Pepper taking a selfie, smiling wearing sunglasses and bike helmet on gravel road next to ocean, loaded bike parked

I carried on riding north and decided to stray slightly off-route to check out La Ventana, home to some of the best kiteboarding in Baja. I battled the legendary headwind into town, got dinner, and had another beautiful night under the stars as I painted beach scenes from my ride. The next morning, I caught a ripper tailwind out of town and got back on route to head through what was one of my next favorite sections, the Sierra de la Laguna park.

Pen and watercolor illustration of road along hilly shoreline, signed and dated by Pepper Cook

Riding through the park was rugged and beautiful, and there was an ice-cold mountain stream to be found at the bottom of my descent. I soaked my bandanna and cooled off for the climb back up and out of the park, then descended yet again into Todos Santos. Upon arrival in Todos Santos, I ran into several friends I met on the Baja Divide route two years ago; then I discovered that the famous music festival that benefits the Todos Santos Fire Department was in full swing. I kept my bike in my friend's garage and stayed several nights to listen to the bands, watercolor paint, and vacation (without feeling like a bandit on the run, as I often do when trying to complete a bikepacking route). Then it was time to say goodbye and go meet back up with my bike box in Los Cabos.

Pen and watercolor illustration of city street with colorful buildings and clothes lines spanning the street from roof tops

For anyone who doesn’t have a ton of time but wants to experience the trail magic of Baja, the Cape Loop is the perfect taste and will definitely leave you craving more.

Pen and watercolor illustration of hammock tied to palm trees with string lights near top, in front of fenced garden


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