Cycling Sommelier: Pairing the XNHAT and Gravel Riders
I learned to appreciate perfect pairings at a relatively early age. I spent much of my 20s managing a wine shop, helping people pick out the right bottle to accompany everything from meals to parties to anniversaries.
These days, I use my pairing skills more for connecting gravel riders to routes. In a way, I’ve become a cycling sommelier. Read on for my latest recommendation.
A Northeast Gravel Ride for Everyone
There’s no shortage of superb gravel routes in New Hampshire. But finding one that suits a variety of cyclists is a challenge. As with wine, a route that’s too robust will overpower and detract from the enjoyment; a route that’s too basic risks boring refined palates. The Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail (XNHAT for short) is a rare find that will appeal to most riders.
The Route
The XNHAT is an 80+ mile route from the village of Woodsville on the New Hampshire–Vermont border to the charming ski town of Bethel, Maine. Traveling on bucolic gravel tracks, lovely dirt bike paths, quiet paved country roads, and a little bit of highway, the XNHAT passes quaint north-country towns like Lisbon, Littleton, Whitefield, and Gorham.
For the most part, towns are as easily accessed as they are avoided; riders will feel engulfed by the pastoral northern New Hampshire landscape, but a resupply, cold beer, or warm meal is typically just a short pedal away. Want to tour in luxury? Book a room in one of the charming bed and breakfasts that line the route and savor your meals at restaurants in town. Prefer to rough it? Pack extra food and stay at one of the several established campgrounds or dispersed camping areas on the route.
The Terroir
Terroir is a French term meaning “sense of place.” It’s used to describe how the soil, climate, and terrain influence the taste of a wine, but it also feels applicable to gravel routes.
The XNHAT runs parallel to the Ammonoosuc River on the west end and the Androscoggin River on the east end. The calming burble of moving water drowns out the crunching of dirt and rocks under tires and allows for a refreshing dip to rinse off the grit and relieve aching joints and muscles accumulated after a day in the saddle.
While rivers bookend the XNHAT, mountains are the hallmark of the middle. The route passes New Hampshire’s fabled Presidential Range on the aptly named Presidential Rail Trail. You’ll struggle to keep your eyes on the meandering gravel path as your attention is drawn to the hulking masses of Mount Madison, Mount Adams, and Mount Jefferson towering above (if their summits are not covered in clouds, that is).
On the western end of the Presidential Rail Trail, an observation deck in the Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge is a stellar spot to take in the grandeur of the Pliny range. Just past the trail’seastern terminus, riders are treated to the Carter-Moriah range rising above Reflection Pond.
If you’re planning to ride this route, know that different seasons bring out different flavors of the XNHAT:
- Spring is like a young wine, as riders on the XNHAT can feel unpolished as they shake out early season legs and remember bikepacking best practices while rolling through the budding green of new growth.
- Summer is similar to a vin de soif—which translates to a “wine of thirst” and is used to describe a low-alcohol wine that you can sip all day—with riders chasing big miles through the vibrant yellow and purple wildflowers along the XNHAT during the season’s long days.
- Fall days are savored like the finest wines, as the yellow, red, and orange leaves signal the impending end of riding season and catching a rare glimpse of snowliage (when the mountains are covered in snow and foliage is at or near peak) is a rare treat bestowed on riders.
The Vessel
Just as glassware affects a wine’s flavor, so can a bike affect one’s experience on a route. I recently rode the XNHAT, out and back, over two days on a Salsa Journeyer, and I can attest that it’s a perfect pairing.
The Journeyer and I had a monster first day, covering more than 112 miles and climbing more than 4,000 feet of elevation in a little over 10 hours of moving time. For half of the first day, the Journeyer was fully packed, and we covered mostly gravel paths. For the second half, I carried just bottles and snacks and traveled on peaceful paved roads (I dropped my bikepacking bags off at my campsite on the way out).
Fully laden and riding on gravel ranging from champagne to chunky, the Journeyer comfortably gobbled up mileage, smoothed out the rough terrain, and provided a stable enough platform to shoot photos and videos while riding, albeit with limited success. Unburdened, it raced across the gentle blacktop of Western Maine’s backroads as I hustled to make it to the XNHAT’s endpoint, then back to my campsite before dark. I even got back to camp with enough time for a quick dip in the bracing waters of the campground’s swimming hole.
On the second day, the Journeyer and I needed to ride a relatively benign 60 or so miles with 2,000(ish) feet of climbing. The Journeyer’s forgiving ride was a blessing to my sore neck, shoulder, hands, and umm…backside that were abused by the prior day’s big effort. Once again, the Journeyer shined, embracing the mellower pace of the day along with a high-intensity push to quickly dispatch the final few miles.
Just like the right pairing of wine and food can enhance the flavors found in a favorite bottle, pairing a great route with the right bike makes everything better.
Whatever path you take—whether the XNHAT or your local loop—you’ll be in good hands with the Salsa Journeyer.